Tale of the “Walled City”

Ahmedabad is a city seeped in a rich tapestry of culture, undulating along the twin banks of the river Sabarmati. This is the result of prosperity, stability and an intricate legacy of history through almost six hundred years. It is a city of contrast effortlessly dovetailing to form a seamless whole. Elephants, Ferraris patiently wait at street corners hawking burgers and vadapav; cotton waste to branded textiles encompassed in structures of modern disaster chic textiles to traditional wood mortar havelies. Ahmedabad is melting pots of variety of inter dependent communities and cultures giving rise to a unique blend of architectural form. This then is the Living Heritage of the city.

Actually, what is heritage? A living heritage comprises cultural, traditional, professional and the ritualistic modes of expression in a human settlement. A historical heritage is a legacy of previous milestones, its rich cultural diversity and the human imprint n harmony with nature. It is actually an inheritance from the past, maintained in the present for the benefit of future generations.

The city of Ahmedabad was founded in 1411 AD by Sultan Ahmed Shah. The construction was begun with the fort wall housing the intricately designed city within. The wall was consecrated at four points, by four ‘Ahmeds’, Sheikh Ahmed Khattu Ganj –Baksh, Kaji Ahmed, Malek Ahmed and Sultan Ahmed Shah construction of the city of Ahmedabad commenced in the year 1411A.D and was completed in 1417 A.D. much care was taken on the roads, drainage and planning of the city, Capital of the Gujarat Sultanate. For his new capital, Ahmed Shah erected a citadel, known as Bhadra(propitious) part of which still house government offices today. Palaces, gardens, market places with broad avenues were also initiated. A small mosque, named after the king was commissioned

The planned jigsaw that was the grand capital city of the Sultanate began to undulate and take shape. Ahmed Shah’s Ahmedabad was envisaged as a garrison city with a strong fort wall ringing around it. As the capital flourished, so it was deemed necessary to fortify it. Along with the citadel, palaces and markets work on the fort wall began in due earnest. The fort wall served as a deterrent to many as assault.

During the reign of Mahmud Begda, nobles form the court began to set up Suburban Township around the city. The wall has been a testimony to many an encroachment and internal power struggles. The wall sustained through the Sultanate period and the sway of the Mughals heralded by the entry of Emperor Akbar till the time marauding forces of the Marathas breached the Fort walls, to plunder and loot a weakening empire. It is due to these encroachments that the Mahajans and traders in the city started erecting fortifications and gates to their ‘mohallas’. Thus were born the concept of the ‘Pols’ with their gates, internal passages and security. It was after the events of 1857, that the British ordered ‘Pol’ gates to be demolished and the citizen cavalry demobilized.

It was in the early past of the 20th century, that the earstwile Ahmedabad Municipality under Sardar Patel sanctioned the demolition at select portions of the wall, to enable the city to grow outward and to ease the congestion within the walled city. Today parts of the wall exist along with around eleven exquisite gates which were the various entry and exit points to the city.

There is an interesting folk legend regarding the delayed construction of the city wall during the reign of Ahmed Shah. Legend has it that an ascetic named Maneknath Godaria, living on the banks of the Sabarmati sought to thwart the Sultans attempt to build a new capital. During the day, while construction on the ramparts, gates, and crenallations progressed, the ascetic was busy weaving an ornately detailed quilt. Come evening, the end of the days work with the craftsmen heading for their homes, Maneknath would unravel the weave in his fabric and thus would the days construction on the wall be undone. This unique act continued for a time until an exasperated emperor sent for the ‘Wankar’ ascetic and then began a discussion on magic and methods of sorcery. Amongst his other abilities, Maneknath boasted that he could not enter a tea pot ad exit through it stout. Like all rotative fairy tales, he was finally induced to do so and summarily captured. Before being permanently exiled within this strange gaol, Maneknath begged the Sultan to allow his name to be immortalized and connected to the city.

Happenings in murky annals of history tend to morph into myths was the case with Maneknath but his influence is inexorably linked to that of the city. The south western tower of the citadel, housing the foundation stone of the coty is even today known as Manek Burj and the bustling market square in the old city has always been known as Manek Chowk which is sufficed with colors, sounds, aromas and shapes of bustling metropolis of people and their heritage.

Published: Ahmedabad Mirror